On p. 4 in beret pattern, corrections to the following rounds:
Round 9: Increase round: *k1, p1, M1*; rpt from * to * around = 105 sts.
Note: M1 as new purl st (see Abbreviations)
Round 10: set up shaping: *[(k1, p2) 5 times] pm*; rpt from * to * around.
Round 30: Decrease round: *SSK, pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm; rpt from * to * around.
All further rounds: Work decrease round every other round until 11 sts rem. Change to double-pointed needles when necessary.
On the next round, k2tog 5 times, end k1.
We listened to your feedback and are happy to introduce the new Cosmo Simplified instruction. Please download this new instruction from our Free Patterns section of the website. Cosmo Simplified now replaces the former instruction, Cosmo Chunky Jacket.
Row 12 should read:
Cluster st in cluster, ch 5, cluster st in next cluster st, ch 5, (sc in ch 3 loop, ch 3) twice, sc in ch 3 loop, ch 5, cluster st in cluster st, ch 5, cluster st in cluster st, ch 5, (sc in ch 3 loop, ch 3) twice, sc in ch 3 loop, ch 5, cluster st in cluster st, ch 5, cluster st in last cluster st, ch 3, turn.
Cast on 200 (215, 225, 240) sts. Then follow circle border pattern 3 times = 24 rows. On last row, inc 2 (1, 3, 2) sts evenly across.
First release of this pattern print was missing needle size (see below)
13 hanks of Misti 100% Baby Alpaca Chunky (100 grams/109 yards)
Size: 48" x 66"
Knitting needles: Size #10 (29" or 36" circular needles)
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notes from test Knitter.... It helps to place markers between the seed stitch borders and the body of the afghan; also place markers between each of the motifs (every 28 stitches).
On the breakout rows (37, 41, 45, 49, 53) remember that the markers have to be placed after the 28th stitch.
Stitch 28 will be joined with stitch 1 of the next motif.
After the first stitch of the twist stitch has been worked, place the marker.
(The marker will be between the two stitches that make up the twist.)
It also helps to have some kind of tool to help keep your place (such as a magnetic board).
Starting with Row 37 slip (knit-wise) the first stitch of the motif and follow the pattern as shown on the chart.
The trick is to do nothing with the first stitch of each motif except to slip it.
When you come back on the wrong side, everything should fall into place.
the information for pattern 3 should read:
Row 1-p8, k4, p8 Row 19-p2, k16, p2
Row 2-k8, p4, k8 Row 20-k2, p2, k12, p2, k2
Row 3-p8, RC, p8 Row 21-p2, LP, k10, RP, p2
Row 4-k8, p4, k8 Row 22-k3, p2, k10, p2, k3
Row 5-p7, RK, LK, p7 Row 23-p3, LP, k8, RP, p3
Row 6-k7, p2, k2, p2, k7 Row 24-k4, p2, k8, p2, k4
Row 7-p6, RK, k2, LK, p6 Row 25-p4, LP, k6, RP, p4
Row 8- k6, p2, k4, p2, k6 Row 26-k5, p2, k6, p2, k5
Row 9-p5, RK, k4, LK, p5 Row 27-p5, LP, k4, RP, p5
Row 10-k5, p2, k6, p2, k5 Row 28-k6, p2, k4, p2, k6
Row 11-p4, RK, k6, LK, p4 Row 29-p6, LP, k2, RP, p6
Row 12-k4, p2, k8, p2, k4 Row 30-k7, p2, k2, p2, k7
Row 13-p3, RK, k8, LK, p3 Row 31-p7, LP, RP, p7
Row 14-k3, p2, k10, p2, k3 Row 32-k8, p4, k8
Row 15-p2, RK, k10, LK, p2 Row 33-p8, RC, p8
Row 16-k2, p2, k12, p2, k2 Row 34-k8, p4, k8
Row 17-p2, k16, p2
Row 18-k2, p2, k12, p2, k2
With larger needles, co 40(40, 40, 44, 48)sts. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1
in/ 2.5 cm, dec 1 st on last row = 39(39, 39, 43, 47) sts rem.
On each side of sleeve, inc 1 st every 7(6, 11, 7, 8) rows 4(4, 8, 16, 3) times. Then inc 1 st every 8(7, 12, 8, 9) rows 6(12, 3, 1, 12) times = 59(71, 71, 77, 77) sts rem.
The Diamond Flower Lace Top #652 is missing a notation that when the
lace chart is being worked and the first & or last stitch are 2
together, you will need to start with a yarn over to keep the stitch
count the same.
Working both sides of neck at same time, BO at beg of each neck edge
8(8, 8, 8, 9, 9) sts. BO 2 sts at neck edge 2 times, then 1 st at
neck edge once = 10(12, 16, 17, 19, 22) sts rem for each shoulder.
Work armhole decreases as for back and AT THE SAME TIME work neck
shaping as follows: First row set-up: after first armhole BO, work
29(33, 37, 39, 43, 47) sts, attach a 2nd ball of yarn and BO center
12(12, 12, 14, 14, 16) sts, then work last 33(37, 41, 43, 48, 52) sts.
Working both sides of neck at the same time, BO at each neck edge
8, 8, 9, 9) sts, then 6(, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts. At beg of the
row, BO 3(3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts. Then BO 2 sts at beg of next row. BO 1
st at neck edge 2(3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times and then 1 st every other
Keeping edge sts plain, and working increase one st in from edge,
increase 1 st at each side on next row and then every 3 (3, 2½, 2, 2,
1½ )” to 78 (86, 94, 100, 110, 120) sts. Work
even until piece measures 15 (15½, 15, 15,
14½, 14½)” from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.
On paragraph 4 it says,
“Rep dec rnd a total of 13(15, 17, 17) times, approx. Every .75
(.75,.75,1) inches = 208(220, 232, 232).
When tunic measures 13 in (13, 13.5, 13.75, 14.25) work 1 rnd
The Mirasol Tunic is increasing for the largest size 17 times at aprox.
1". This should be .75".
The corrections is under the Right Front: Shape neckline
At neck edge, BO 1 st at neck edge every row until 19(21, 23, 25)
shoulder sts remain.
July 28, 2010 We corrected the free pattern version currently posted, however, if you downloaded it previously, please see notes below:
Rows 2, 4 & 6 should be as follows - p3, (k2, p6, k2, p2) 4 times, then k2, p6, k2, p3
corrections for the Rita's Wonder Scarf, pattern #1083.
Page 2(first Row 10)
Row 10: k2, *p6, sl 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k1, kf&b in
next st (inc made), k3 from cable needle,* 3 times, end p6, k2 = 46 sts
Just a note to knitters (not a correction but rather some options depending upon how you knit) The main body on the original photographed Victorian Capelet was knit using a size 15 needle. However, the piece was only lightly blocked (Spritzed, laid flat to dry). If you plan on wet blocking the piece, it is advisable to knit a swatch of the cable and lace panel on smaller needles (10's, 11’s and/or 13’s). Wet block your swatch and check your results to see what suits you best.
All my best, Karen
Row 9 (RS): p2, k2, p2, *4/2LC, p2, rpt from * across row.
**Note: Randi made a correction 11/15/11 so if you downloaded this pattern prior to this date, please download this pattern again and follow the "To knit" section on this current version on the website (or see below)
Row 1: k2 (= edge sts), k3, yo, k2, sl 2, k1, psso, k2, yo, k3, k2 (= edge sts)
Row 2, 4, 6, 8,10, 12: k edge sts, work rem sts as they appear, p yo.
Row 3: k2 (= edge sts), k4, yo, k1, sl 2, k1, psso, k1, yo, k4, k2 (= edge sts)
Row 5: k2, (= edge sts), k5, yo, sl 2, k1, psso, yo, k5, k2 (= edge sts)
Row 7 + 9: k2, k6, p1, k6, k2
Row 11: k2, place 3 sts on cable ndl and hold in back, k3, k sts from cable ndl, p1, place 3 sts on cable ndl and hold in front, k3, k sts from cable ndl, k2.
Rep row 1 - 12. End with row 11. Cast off.